{"id":17324,"date":"2019-01-26T17:00:28","date_gmt":"2019-01-26T16:00:28","guid":{"rendered":"http:\/\/www.canadutch.nl\/wordpress\/?p=17324"},"modified":"2019-02-01T07:16:13","modified_gmt":"2019-02-01T06:16:13","slug":"all-good-things-cowl-free-knitting-pattern","status":"publish","type":"post","link":"https:\/\/www.canadutch.nl\/blog\/archives\/17324","title":{"rendered":"All Good Things Cowl – Free Knitting Pattern"},"content":{"rendered":"
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If you ever question my ability to procrastinate, here is the cold hard proof that I have mastered that skill. It was almost two years ago that I\u00a0first showed my All Good Things cowl<\/a>\u00a0here on my blog. I had the best of intentions for releasing the pattern quickly, but then other projects and other things (moving house, injuries, etc) got in the way. I have been reminded by my lovely testers approximately 30 times in the past 1.5 years, and I think they will hardly believe their eyes when they see that I’ve actually written this post! Better late than never, though, right? I hope this project will live up to its name and that All Good Things is worth the wait! \"\"<\/p>\r\n

All Good Things Cowl (Scheepjes Wanderlust Rio de Jeneiro (453) <\/a><\/p>\r\n

I haven’t been waiting, I’ve been busy wearing and and enjoying it!\u00a0<\/p>\r\n

I would consider this cowl to be beginner friendly-ISH. It’s not as easy getting started as some of my other patterns but it’s also not really difficult. Like other recent designs which I’ve deemed to be beginner friendly, it’s very repetitive. This means that once you get the hang of the stitches, it’s just repeat, repeat, repeat. I’m including a video to help you along, which is in my usual stye (all one take, babbling, mistakes be damned, and my hands may drift off screen now and then). So yeah, it’s long\u00a0but<\/em> it’s there to use if you need the visual.<\/p>\r\n

There are a number of different ways to do the herringbone stitch but this is the one that I enjoyed working the most and that I liked the look of best. It gives a tidy herringbone without any other parts of the stitches peeking through. In order to try to simplify the instructions I have made up the “spsk<\/strong>” abbreviation as I wasn’t sure there was an existing abbreviation for it, but we can just roll with it!<\/p>\r\n

Ok! Let’s get to it!<\/p>\r\n

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Did you know that the All Good Things Cowl Pattern is also available as a printable PDF? One purchase of a small fee gives you access to two PDF files, one full coloured with photos and the other a printer friendly black and white pattern with just the essentials. Buying the printable pattern makes it easier to take the it with you on the go and is also a great way to support me as a designer! Click here to buy your PDF now<\/a><\/strong>!<\/p>\r\n

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All Good Things Cowl Pattern<\/h2>\r\n

Materials<\/strong>
2 or 3 balls (see notes) Scheepjes Wanderlust<\/a> (Rio De Janeiro 453 used for example in photos)
6mm needles
4mm needles
Darning needle for assembly and ends
Blocking materials<\/p>\r\n

Gauge
<\/strong>30 sts and 20 rows\u00a0over 10cm x 10cm in herringbone pattern using 6mm

<\/strong>Measurements<\/strong>
See Notes<\/p>\r\n\r\n\r\n\r\n

Abbreviations<\/strong>
co\u00a0<\/strong>cast on
k\u00a0<\/strong>knit
k2tog tbl\u00a0<\/strong>knit two together through back loop
ktbl<\/strong> knit through back loop
p\u00a0<\/strong>purl
p2tog\u00a0<\/strong>purl two together. In this pattern only first stitch is slipped from left needle unless at the end of the row.
spsk\u00a0<\/strong>worked the same as a ssk but the first slip is done purlwise. Only first stitch is dropped from left needle unless at the end of the row.
ssk\u00a0<\/strong>slip slip knit. In this pattern only first stitch is slipped from left needle.
st<\/strong> stitch<\/p>\r\n

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Pattern Notes<\/strong>
The nature of the herringbone stitch makes it a little difficult to gauge the size. This stitch needs to be worked on larger needles than the yarn calls for, but must also be worked loosely. For that reason, it is possible that your size may work out slightly differently than mine. You must force yourself to work loosely and not pull your working yarn tight when making your stitches.

The first row of this pattern can be a struggle, this has proven to be the norm among myself and my testers. It will also take a few rows for your herringbone pattern to be visible. If you feel you are still struggling to get your needle into your stitches beyond the first 2-3 rows, you need to loosen your tension or perhaps try a larger needle size.

I have given the material requirements as 2 or 3 balls, as this will depend on how long you want your cowl. A cowl worked within two balls, including the border, will be approximately 110cm in full length (unblocked), which when folded into an infinity cowl creates a more snug fit. If you prefer your cowls to be a little looser, you will want to get three balls, which gives you more flexibility when working the length. You can then stop when you reach your desired length and then add your border.

The example in my photos was made using two full balls for the cowl plus extra from a third ball for the border. My cowl measures 145cm in full length after blocking and 22cm wide.

If you choose to work within two balls, knit in pattern until you have approximately 20g left for your border. I estimated 20g to try to make sure you have enough. On my border using two full balls for the cowl, I used 16g for the border. I gave 20g as a generous estimate so it\u2019s possible you will have a few grams left over.

To make your cowl wider, you simply add multiples of two to your beginning stitch count.<\/p>\r\n

<\/i>\n\t\t\tIf you are a new knitter (or just like to play it safe) I highly suggest using regular lifelines in this pattern. Unlike stockinette or garter stitch, this is a bit more complicated to tink back and dropping down to fix stitches would be a chore. Do yourself a favour and use the lifelines as your safety net with the herringbone stitch!\n\t\t\t<\/div><\/div>\r\n

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INSTRUCTIONS<\/h3>\r\n

Using 6mm CO 66 sts

Herringbone Stitch<\/strong>
Row 1 (RS) <\/strong>Ssk and drop first stitch ONLY from left needle, spsk to one stitch left, ktbl.
Row 2 (WS)\u00a0<\/strong>P2tog, drop first stitch ONLY from left needle, repeat to one stitch left, p1.

Knit in pattern, repeating rows 1 and 2 until you have reached your desired length (see notes) and bind off.

Applied Icord Edge<\/strong>
Work your applied Icord edge as follows (see video\u00a0below\u00a0for visual instructions for which stitches to pick up and how to work your icord):

Using 4mm needles CO 3 stitches
**Pick up stitch from side of cowl with left needle, slip 3 stitches from right needles to left. (4 sts on left needle)
k2, k2tog tbl.**
Repeat **…..** until no stitches on side of cowl left to pick up
Slip 3 stitches from right needle to left.
K1, k2tog tbl.
Slip 2 stitches from right needle to left.
K2tog tbl.
Cut yarn and pull through to bind off.<\/p>\r\n

Block to even out stitches and sew ends together to form a loop.<\/p>\r\n

Tutorial Video<\/h3>\r\n